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Perfume was first used by the Egyptians as part of their
religious rituals. The two principal methods of usage at this time
was the burning of incense and the application of balms and ointments.
Perfumed oils were applied to the skin for either cosmetic or medicinal
purposes. During the Old and Middle Kingdoms, perfumes were reserved
exclusively for religious rituals such as cleansing ceremonies.
Then during the New Kingdom (1580-1085 BC) they were used during
festivals and Egyptian women also used perfumed creams and oils
as toiletries, cosmetics, and preludes to lovemaking. The use of
perfume then spread to Greece, Rome, and the Islamic world. And
it was the Islamic community that kept the use of perfumes since
the spread of Christianity led to a decline in the use of perfume.
With the fall of the Roman Empire, perfume's influence dwindled.
It was not until the twelfth century and the development of international
trade that the decline was reversed.
Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth
century. Perfumed gloves became popular in France in 1656; the guild
of glove and perfume-makers was established. The use of perfume
in France grew steadily. The court of Louis XV was even named "the
perfumed court" due to the scents, which were applied daily
not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture. The
eighteenth century saw a revolutionary advance in perfumery with
the invention of eau de Cologne. This refreshing blend of rosemary,
neroli, bergamot and lemon was used in a multitude of different
ways: diluted in bath water, mixed with wine, eaten on a sugar lump,
as a mouthwash, an enema or an ingredient for a poultice, injected
directly... and so on. The variety of eighteenth-century perfume
containers was as wide as that of the fragrances and their uses.
Sponges soaked in scented vinaigres de toilette were kept in gilded
metal vinaigrettes. Liquid perfumes came in beautiful Louis XIV-style
pear-shaped bottles. Glass became increasingly popular, particularly
in France with the opening of the Baccarat factory in 1765.
As with industry and the arts, perfume was to undergo
profound change in the nineteenth century. Changing tastes and the
development of modern chemistry laid the foundations of perfumery,
as we know it today. Alchemy gave way to chemistry and new fragrances
were created. The French Revolution in no way diminished the taste
for perfume- there was even a fragrance called "Perfume a la
Guillotine." Under the post-revolutionary government, people
once again dared to express a penchant for luxury goods, including
perfume. A profusion of vanity boxes containing perfumes appeared
in the 19th century.
Due to its growing trades in jasmine, rose and orange
, the town of Grasses in Provence established itself as the largest
production center for raw materials. The statutes of the perfume-makers
of Grasses were passed in 1724. Paris became the commercial counterpart
to Grasses and the world center of perfume. Perfume houses such
as Houbigant (produces Quelques Fleurs, still very popular today),
Lubin, Roger & Gallet, and Guerlain all made their base in Paris.
Soon bottling became more important. Perfume maker, Francois
Coty, formed a partnership with Rene Lalique. Lalique then produced
bottles for Guerlain, D'Orsay, Lubin, Molinard, Roger & Gallet
and others. Baccarat then joined in, producing the bottle for Mitsouko
(Guerlain), Shalimar (Guerlain) and others. Brosse glassworks created
the memorable bottle for Jeanne Lanvin's Arpege and the famous Chanel
No.5.
1921- Couturier Gabrielle Chanel launches her own brand of perfume,
created by Ernest Beaux, she called it Chanel No.5 because it was
the fifth in a line of fragrances Ernest Beaux presented her. Ernest
Beaux was the first perfumer to use aldehyde (see perfumery ingredients)
regularly in perfumery.
The 1930's saw the arrival of the leather family of
fragrances. And floral also became quite popular with the emergence
of Worth's Je Reviens (1932), Caron's Fleur de Rocaille (1933) and
Jean Patou's Joy (1935). With French perfumery at its peak in the
1950's, other designers such as Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Nina
Ricci, Pierre Bal main, and so on, started creating their own scents.
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