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Perfume was first used by the Egyptians as part of their religious
rituals. The two principal methods of usage at this time was the
burning of incense and the application of balms and ointments. Perfumed
oils were applied to the skin for either cosmetic or medicinal purposes.
During the Old and Middle Kingdoms, perfumes were reserved exclusively
for religious rituals such as cleansing ceremonies. Then during
the New Kingdom (1580-1085 BC) they were used during festivals and
Egyptian women also used perfumed creams and oils as toiletries,
cosmetics, and preludes to lovemaking. The use of perfume then spread
to Greece, Rome, and the Islamic world. And it was the Islamic community
that kept the use of perfumes since the spread of Christianity led
to a decline in the use of perfume. With the fall of the Roman Empire,
perfume's influence dwindled. It was not until the twelfth century
and the development of international trade that the decline was
reversed.
Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth century. Perfumed
gloves became popular in France in 1656; the guild of glove and
perfume-makers was established. The use of perfume in France grew
steadily. The court of Louis XV was even named "the perfumed
court" due to the scents, which were applied daily not only
to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture. The eighteenth
century saw a revolutionary advance in perfumery with the invention
of eau de Cologne. This refreshing blend of rosemary, neroli, bergamot
and lemon was used in a multitude of different ways: diluted in
bath water, mixed with wine, eaten on a sugar lump, as a mouthwash,
an enema or an ingredient for a poultice, injected directly... and
so on. The variety of eighteenth-century perfume containers was
as wide as that of the fragrances and their uses. Sponges soaked
in scented vinaigres de toilette were kept in gilded metal vinaigrettes.
Liquid perfumes came in beautiful Louis XIV-style pear-shaped bottles.
Glass became increasingly popular, particularly in France with the
opening of the Baccarat factory in 1765.
As with industry and the arts, perfume was to undergo profound change
in the nineteenth century. Changing tastes and the development of
modern chemistry laid the foundations of perfumery, as we know it
today. Alchemy gave way to chemistry and new fragrances were created.
The French Revolution in no way diminished the taste for perfume-
there was even a fragrance called "Perfume a la Guillotine."
Under the post-revolutionary government, people once again dared
to express a penchant for luxury goods, including perfume. A profusion
of vanity boxes containing perfumes appeared in the 19th century.
Due to its growing trades in jasmine, rose and orange , the town
of Grasses in Provence established itself as the largest production
center for raw materials. The statutes of the perfume-makers of
Grasses were passed in 1724. Paris became the commercial counterpart
to Grasses and the world center of perfume. Perfume houses such
as Houbigant (produces Quelques Fleurs, still very popular today),
Lubin, Roger & Gallet, and Guerlain all made their base in Paris.
Soon bottling became more important. Perfume maker, Francois Coty,
formed a partnership with Rene Lalique. Lalique then produced bottles
for Guerlain, D'Orsay, Lubin, Molinard, Roger & Gallet and others.
Baccarat then joined in, producing the bottle for Mitsouko (Guerlain),
Shalimar (Guerlain) and others. Brosse glassworks created the memorable
bottle for Jeanne Lanvin's Arpege and the famous Chanel No.5.
1921- Couturier Gabrielle Chanel launches her own brand of perfume,
created by Ernest Beaux, she called it Chanel No.5 because it was
the fifth in a line of fragrances Ernest Beaux presented her. Ernest
Beaux was the first perfumer to use aldehyde (see perfumery ingredients)
regularly in perfumery.
The 1930's saw the arrival of the leather family of fragrances.
And floral also became quite popular with the emergence of Worth's
Je Reviens (1932), Caron's Fleur de Rocaille (1933) and Jean Patou's
Joy (1935). With French perfumery at its peak in the 1950's, other
designers such as Christian Dior, Jacques Fath, Nina Ricci, Pierre
Bal main, and so on, started creating their own scents.
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